Starting Seeds

STARTING SEEDS

It’s easy to start plants from seed. Just follow a few guidelines. A seed is nothing more than an envelope surrounding a dormant living plant inside. All you have to do is to provide favorable growing conditions, so that nature can release all of its magic to create a beautiful plant.

To germinate; seeds need the proper amount of warmth, moisture, light and air. Seeds can be started either directly in the garden, indoors under lights, or on a bright window sill. Starting seeds indoors gives them a head start in the garden and allows plants to develop to full maturity before fall frost. In doing so we can enjoy our plants for a longer period of time.

Get Ready to Start Your Seeding

A good germinating mixture should be very light, porous and sterile, free of insects, disease and weed seeds. We suggest a seeding mix which contains peat moss, perlite and vermiculite. This uniform mixture doesn’t compact and keeps temperatures even throughout the container. The seeding mix also provides for the proper balance of air and moisture necessary for fast root development. We recommend any of the following for best results:

Young seedlings must not dry out or they will die. However, too much water will rob the seedling roots of air, resulting in suffocation. A good thing to do if you are unsure how wet your soil needs to be is to tumble the mixture in a bag, adding water – a little at a time until it is damp. Give a handful of the mixture a firm squeeze. Water should NOT squeeze out. It’s now ready to use. 

Note: If you are not planning on using the rest of your soil for a while make sure to put it back in a bag or cover it so that it does not completely dry out before your next use.

Containers

Containers for growing seeds should be sterile, 2-3” deep and provide adequate drainage.  For pots you can use plastic pots, fibre trays, peat pots, or Jiffy 7’s. Both peat pots and Jiffy 7’s can be planted either pot-and-all into a larger pot or directly into the garden after frost danger. Seedlings grown in individual plastic pots are easily transplanted into the garden without transplant shock.

We recommend starting several seeds in a small flat first. Try our seeding trays! These trays make it easy to separate varieties and control watering. When several plants are grown in one container, roots are damaged when the plants are torn apart for planting outside. These plants take several days to recover from transplanting.

Seeds

Always use fresh seeds. The germination percentage is much higher. Using old seed (depending on the plant) typically doesn't all grow and only results in disappointment. Seeds you keep from garden plants of the previous year will not grow true-to-form if the variety was a hybrid. (Most seeds offered to home gardeners are now hybrids.)

Sowing the Seeds

Fill the tray or pot to the top with moist seeding mix. Press down gently to remove air pockets and top off again with dry seed mix. We suggest seeding in rows. Make rows or grooves 1/8” (3mm) deep and about 2” apart using the flat edge of a ruler. Seed larger seeds in the grooves formed. For very tiny seeds such as petunias, lobelia, and wax begonias, seed right on top without grooves. Space seeds thinly 1/8” apart to allow room for plant development. (If you seed them to close your plants will be competing with each other when they sprout and won't develop as good as they could)

If planting in pots, place 2-3 seeds per pot in case some don’t germinate. Seeds should not be covered too deeply. Carefully sift or shake some dry seed mix over the seeds. A good rule of thumb is to cover the seeds evenly by twice their own thickness. NO DEEPER. Tiny seeds such as lobelia or begonias need little to no cover.

Moisten the surface gently with a light spray misting. To maintain humidity and prevent drying out during germination, cover the seed flats with clear plastic or use our special seeding tray covers. DO NOT allow plastic to contact the seed bed.

Place containers in a warm, 21°C (70°F) bright location. Bottom heat improves germination. This can be achieved with a heat mat or by placing seed trays over a heat source such as a hot water heat radiator. Avoid strong drafts that might dry out the seed bed.

If growing under lights, lower the lights so that they are 16” above the containers. Label each variety with name and date of seeding. As soon as the seeds show their first signs of growth, any plastic covers MUST be removed. When growth is evident, move the plants to a cooler location, 18°C (60-65°F) and into brighter light. Cooler air and good air movement reduces the risk of damping-off (collapse of young seedlings) and develops stronger plants. Water between the rows of seedlings while trying to keep as much water as possible off the plants.

Transplanting

When?

Plants are ready for transplanting once they develop their third or fourth true leaf these are the leaves which look like what the actual plants leaves should look like. The first two leaves you see coming out of the seed are not true leaves and are called cotyledons. (these are just used by the seed to get itself started Transplanting too early results in a high rate of loss. Plants left too long in the seed flat do not recover from transplant shock as easily and growth is retarded.

Containers

A variety of containers are suitable for transplanting. They should be clean and provide good drainage. We suggest planting either in pots or cell-packs so each plant has its own roots separate from the others. This keeps transplanting shock to a minimum when planting in the garden later.

Soil Mix

Seedlings should be transplanted into the soil mix. When separating them from each other in the seed flat be careful not to tear the roots. We suggest the following mix: 1 part good garden loam soil, 1 part peat moss, and 1 part perlite or vermiculite. This mixture allows a good balance between air spaces in the soil and moisture retention. Seedlings can also be planted into soil-less mixes (ie. Seeding mix), however plants will need more care in watering and fertilization. The following are some good examples of mixes we would recommend:

Watering

Water lightly immediately after transplanting. In the first few days after transplanting, the plant roots are relatively small in relation to the size of the container. Therefore, watering should be less frequent. As the plant grows larger, more water will be needed. Water early in the day to reduce wetness of the plants overnight. Over watering may cause diseases such as mould or “damping-of” (see Problem Solving section).

Light

Immediately after transplanting, plants should be given indirect light but sheltered from strong light to help the plants recover. After a day or two, good bright light is necessary to ensure good plant growth. A bright sunny window sill is good. Twelve to fourteen hours of fluorescent lights is a suitable substitute for natural light.

Temperature

Cooler temperatures; 18°C (60-65°F) once the plants are transplanted help to keep the plants stronger, shorter and more compact. Cooler temperatures for “growing on” help plants adjust better when set outside.

Timing

Seeding and transplanting should be done so that plants are sturdy and stalky when they are ready to be set out in the garden. Very large or tall spindly plants do not transplant well. Seeding dates vary from variety to variety. Use our seeding schedule as a guide. Keep accurate records from year to year. They will help determine what timing is best for your particular situation.

Fertilizing

Newly germinated seedlings need little or no fertilizer. As seedlings develop, fertilizer may be necessary to maintain healthy growth. Water soluble fertilizers are best for transplanted seedlings. An all-purpose fertilizer such as 20-20-20 works well in a very mild dilution as a constant feed program (every day watering), or feed at regular rates every one to two weeks. Follow package label directions. When transplanting, use a plant start fertilizer such as 5-15-5 for fast establishment of roots. You can also use a transplanting fertilizer such as 10-52-10.

Remember when seedlings are young they don’t require as much feeding as when they mature. Adjust your fertilizer accordingly. A fertilizer such as 15-30-15 or a Flower, Shrub and vegetable food 12-18-9 may be preferred later on to help promote blossoms and fruit. A higher middle number or fertilizers is what promotes fruit and flower development.

Problem Solving

Slow Germination

• Soil too dry; there isn’t enough moisture to allow growth to start.
• Soil too wet; seeds either rot first or roots rot later.
• Temperature too cool; most seeds germinate better at warmer temperature.
• Seed covered too deeply; more time is required to “push” through

Patchy Germination

• Check section for slow germination above.
• Some seeds require special conditions to germinate ex: Verbena needs darkness and Forget-me-nots  cooler temperatures - 12°C (55°F)

Spindly or Leggy Plants

• Seeds are sown too thickly, plants reach higher and higher as they compete with one another.
• Temperatures too warm, plants grow too quickly and growth becomes soft and leggy. Grow plants at 16°C (60°F) nights and 21°C (70°F) days.
• Low lights, plants are reaching for any available light. Move to a brighter window or increase intensity of artificial light.

Plants Wither and Die after Germination

This is a fungus disease called “Damping-off” which attacks the stem right at the soil surface causing total collapse of the plant.

• All unsterilized soil contains Damping-off disease. Use only sterilized soil such our special soil-less seeding mixes shown earlier. These are Pro-mix BX or Pro-mix HP.
• Try to avoid using unclean containers, materials, and tools (including hands). Always thoroughly clean all containers and tools.
• Temperatures too high; growth is soft and disease is more likely.
• Temperatures too cool; damping-off disease thrives in cool, damp conditions.
• Soil too wet; let soil dry between watering. Water between the rows of seedlings keeping water off the plants when possible.
• Poor air circulation; closed containers or areas without some air movement should be avoided.
• Diseases can be carried on seeds themselves.

Wilted or Unhealthy looking Plants

Seedlings need very little fertilizer until they are up and growing. They have enough food stored inside their seed coats. When young, seedling roots are very sensitive and are easily burned by excess fertilizer. During the seedling stage, use fertilizer sparingly and only when deficiency symptoms occur. Always follow container recommendations for diluting fertilizer carefully.

On to the Garden

The reward for the effort in starting your own seeds comes once the danger of frost has passed and your healthy plants can be planted in the garden.  A little care when transplanting in the garden can ensure success. Proper spacing (See chart) ensures a good colour show or high vegetable harvests without overcrowding. A loose, well-drained soil provides good growing conditions. Soil amendments such as peat moss and sheep or cow manure help to keep soil loose, hold moisture, and allow good drainage. Use a plant starter fertilizer with a high middle number such as 10-15-10 when transplanting into the garden. Nature’s magic starts to unfold as those green plants burst into colour or produce rich harvests for fruits and vegetables.

***Use the charts below as a general guideline for seeding. The objective is to seed things so that they start sprouting after the danger of frost is past. Some years the danger of frost is past by May 24th and other years it is the end of the first week of June. It is best to look at the weather forecast for the coming weeks before you decide to plant your seeds outside. If starting your seeds inside all the indoor seed dates should be fine as they are not affected by the cold weather when indoors. **

Information chart for annuals

Information Chart for Vegetables seeded Indoors